Google+ High Tech House Calls
Expert Computer Consulting for Homes and Small Businesses

Let there be hope...

Life has changed there is no doubt and we wanted to reach out to see how you are doing.

As we go through this interesting time, we are trying to look at this as an opportunity to focus on our family and on friends like you. Let us use this extra time to catch up and talk more. Let us cook food that is not fast, but interesting and satisfying. Let us learn to enjoy a time to try new things. Let us find ways to enjoy time at home!

Computer Security

If my client base is any experience, anyone can be a victim of a Ransomware, Malware or Virus attack.

What can you do about it?

I conduct audits of your entire computer infrastructure and apply best practice solutions to plug the security holes on your computers, Smartphones and networks.

Now offering consultations to give you the best protection possible:


404.229.0839
carlthorne@hthcatlanta.com

Jack of All Trades, Master of Many

Jack of All Trades, and Master of Many

We provide technical support for:


Homes and small businesses

Windows and the Mac OS platform

iPhones and Android Smartphones

Wireless and wired networks

New device setup

Old device upgrade or repair

One-on-one training

Remote assistance


How To Stop Malware

Sunday, July 27, 2014

Apple releases important security updates for Mac, Safari, iOS and Apple TV by Kim Komando

Calling all Apple users! There have been important security updates you need to install right away!

The fixes are for the mobile operating system, iOS 7.1.2, which will improve connectivity with iBeacons and fixes an issue associated with data transfers from third-party apps like barcode scanners.

Not sure how to update to iOS 7.1.2? Click here to learn how or go to Settings>>General>>Software Update. Be sure you have everything important backed up, just in case something like this happens.

OS X users will want to update to Mavericks 10.9.4, which fixes problems that prevented some Macs from automatically connecting to known Wi-FI networks, along with updates to Safari.

Apple TV users want to update to version 6.2. Here are the directions on how to update Apple TV from Apple:

        Select Settings > General > Update Software. Apple TV checks for an available update; if one is available, a download message should appear.
        Click Download and Install to start the download process.
        Do not disconnect your Apple TV during the update process. The Apple TV status light may flash slowly during the update and restart process. This is expected behavior.

Why not sign up for my newsletter? We will never sell or sell your email address. Unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe link at the bottom of the newsletter.
Email Newsletter icon, E-mail Newsletter icon, Email List icon, E-mail List icon Sign up for our Email Newsletter


For Email Marketing you can trust


My Photo

Carl Thorne
Expert Computer Consulting 

10 basic Tips & Tricks every Android user needs to know by Kim Komando

Did you just get a new Android smartphone or tablet? Want to get the most out of a gadget you've had for a while?

Here are some of my favorite tips and tricks that every Android owner needs to know. From security to wallpaper to little things you'd never think of, I'll cover it.

Just note that every Android gadget has a slightly different version of Android, so you might have to hunt around a bit to follow the directions. Just know the options are there.

Let's start with some security.
1. Install antivirus apps
With just a few clicks here and there, hackers can easily get into your computer and steal your personal information. The same is true of your smartphone. One of the first things you want to do with your new Android is to make sure it is secure.

2. Set up a passcode

A passcode is critical to have. Think about it: Your phone stores a treasure trove of personal information that thieves would LOVE to steal from you. You don’t want to make things easy for them.

That's why you don't want just any passcode, you want a strong one. Users who create 4-digit passcodes such as 0000 and 1234 might as well turn the security feature off.

To set up a passcode go to Settings>>Lock Screen and tap "Screen lock." In other versions of Android, it's under Security>>Location and Security>>Screen Lock.

Here you can choose to set a pin number, password or even a connect-the-dots pattern. On newer versions of Android, you also have the option for "Face" or "Face and voice" unlock.

I'd give those a pass. They're are cool, but not really all that secure.

You'll want to make sure in your settings that your phone is set to lock automatically after just a few minutes. Letting it sit for hours before it locks kind of defeats the purpose.

3. Save battery life

Android gadgets aren't exactly known for their stellar battery life, but there are things you can do to make it last.

First, your screen hogs a lot of juice, but it doesn't have to.

By default your screen is set to automatically change the brightness depending how long it's been active and the surrounding lighting level. On some gadgets this works well and on some it doesn't.

You can manually set the brightness by going to Settings>>Display>>Brightness. Adjust the slider so your screen is visible, but not overly bright.

In the same area, Settings>>Display, you'll see the "Screen timeout" option. This shuts off your screen after you don't use your gadget for a certain amount of time. Set it to a minute or two and watch your battery life improve.

You can look at other settings in the Display area as well. For example, "Smart screen" keeps the screen on as long as you're looking at it. This is cool, but it does use a bit more battery life to detect your face.

Other things aside from the display can drain your battery - such as apps. Android's built-in battery monitor, which you can find at Settings>>Battery, is OK, but it could be better.

The Battery Saver app has dozens of power-saving tips and tricks, like shutting off power-hogging programs. It will also display the amount of time that your battery has left and tell you which apps take up the most power. This way, you can delete the power-hungry apps you don’t need or use.

4. Take a screenshot

It's one of the simplest things to do on a computer: Just tap the Print Screen button to take a screenshot. It's just that easy on your smartphone, too!

But you'd be surprised how many people don't know how to do this simple trick. It's as easy as pressing the power button and volume down button at the same time.

Try it! The screenshot will appear in your photo album.

5. Monitor your data

With most cellular providers, data plans are mandatory with the purchase of any smartphone. Unfortunately, data plans cost quite a bit and don’t get you much data.

That makes it easy to accidentally go ove

Go to Settings>>Data Usage. You can set your billing cycle, data limits and when you get alerts. You can also see how much data you typically use and which apps use the most. That can help you track down data hogs to remove.

If you hit the Settings button in Data Usage you can turn on the "Restrict Background Services" option. This forces the gadget to do updates over Wi-Fi instead of cellular.

6. Enable or disable landscape view
It can be annoying when you're in the middle of typing a message or browsing online and your screen rotates on you. The option to switch between portrait and landscape views is nice, but sometimes your gadget is a little too touchy.

Luckily, you can disable this setting and lock your phone into portrait mode if you want.

Go to Settings>>Display and uncheck "Auto rotate screen." In some versions if might be under Settings>>Display>>Orientation.
r, which means huge overage fees. Android helps you track your data use and set limits before you go over.

7. Add and change your wallpaper

You don't have to stick with the default wallpaper on your gadget. There are plenty of other options, and nothing makes a phone feel more personalized than choosing your own background.

Just tap and hold any empty area on the Android home screen. You will see a pop-up menu that says "Set Wallpaper." In later versions, you can choose to set the wallpaper for your home screen, lock screen or both.

Then you'll get a choice of where to get the wallpaper. You can pull it from your photos, live wallpapers or the wallpaper folder.

Be cautious before using a Live Wallpaper though. Those have moving images and can dramatically drain your battery and even slow down your scrolling.

8. Download essential apps
There are millions of apps in the Google Play Store. How do you know where to start? Luckily, I'm here to help.

Start with my Top 10 essential apps for Android. Then specialize with 5 best weather-checking apps, the best calendar and reminder apps, and top apps for travel. For more games, entertainment, shopping, security and utility apps, visit the app section of my site.

9. Uninstall accidental apps

Whoops! You didn't want that app, you wanted this one. That doesn't mean you are stuck with the wrong app forever.

To remove an unwanted app, go to Settings>>Application manager. Tap on an app and then tap the Uninstall button.

The apps that the gadget manufacturer put on the phone at the factory won't have this option. For those, all you can do is remove them from the home screen.

To do this, tap and hold an app icon on the home screen until a trash can appears at the top of the screen. Drag the icon to the trash can and it will go away.

10.  Find your phone if it’s lost or stolen
Misplacing your phone can be frustrating; Android Device Manager is an invaluable app to have in this situation. It tracks down your gadget with GPS so you can go find it. If your phone is just lost, you can cause it to ring at full volume or display a message on the lock screen.

If you don’t lock your phone, you can lock it remotely with a new password. Of course, a savvy thief would have used that time to take over already. In the absolute worst case, you can wipe the personal information from your gadget. That way no thief can get it.

Why not sign up for my newsletter? We will never sell or sell your email address. Unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe link at the bottom of the newsletter.
Email Newsletter icon, E-mail Newsletter icon, Email List icon, E-mail List icon Sign up for our Email Newsletter


For Email Marketing you can trust


My Photo

Carl Thorne
Expert Computer Consulting 

Netflix pro tip: How to find movies that don’t suck by BGR

Netflix is a fantastic service that has and will continue to change the home entertainment landscape. But despite how disruptive the service have been — and this is one of those rare cases where “disruptive” is being used to describe a company that actually disrupted something — it can still be infuriatingly difficult to find good content amid all of the stale movies and TV shows in Netflix’s library.


A new website called “A Better Queue” is dedicated to helping Netflix subscribers create exactly what its name describes: A better Netflix queue full of the best movies the company has to offer.

The free service allows users to set a minimum Rotten Tomatoes rating, a minimum number of reviews and a timeframe, and then one or more genres can be chosen. A subsequent search will cut through the fluff and pull up only the best Netflix has to offer.

The service is currently a bit slow because it is getting hammered by Reddit traffic, but the site’s developer says he’s working on addressing the issue.

Guess which browser has the most security flaws? by Kim Komando

Surprise! The latest version of Internet Explorer is still the number one target for hackers, according to a report by cybersecurity firm Bromium. The report also reveals other trends in cybersecurity.

For the first half of 2014, the report found that Google Chrome has actually had no publicly known security flaws, making it safe from malware attacks.

Here are their top five observations that you might find useful:
  1. Microsoft Internet Explorer set a record high for reported vulnerabilities in the first half of 2014.
  2. Internet Explorer also leads in publicly reported exploits.
  3. Web browser release cycles are becoming more frequent - as are initial security patches.
  4. Adobe Flash is the primary browser plugin being targeted by zero day attacks this year.
  5. New "Action Script Spray" techniques targeting Flash have been uncovered in the wild exploiting zero day vulnerabilities.
The report was impressed by the quick update schedule that Internet Explorer used to patch its holes. It's still one of the most commonly-attacked browsers by far. Keeping your Flash player up to date is also very important, primarily because of the fact that it's on almost everyone's computer. Always update your Flash player if at all possible to avoid security flaws like this.

Why not sign up for my newsletter? We will never sell or sell your email address. Unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe link at the bottom of the newsletter.
Email Newsletter icon, E-mail Newsletter icon, Email List icon, E-mail List icon Sign up for our Email Newsletter


For Email Marketing you can trust


My Photo

Carl Thorne
Expert Computer Consulting 

HDMI, DVI and VGA - What's the difference? by Kim Komando


The tech world is full of TLAs, or three-letter acronyms. Sometimes they're even four or five letters.
If you aren't sure what these acronyms stand for, you can easily get lost in a conversation with a salesperson or get a headache looking through product specs. You might end up buying something you don't need, or even the wrong thing.

Today, I'm going to clear the air around video connectors. It can mean the difference between a glorious high definition picture and crummy low-resolution video.

I'm also going to talk about the cables. Do you really need cables that cost almost as much as your TV or monitor? I'll put the debate to rest.

VGA

VGA or Video Graphics Array is the oldest of the video connectors. It's been around since 1987, if you can believe it, but it just won't go away. It's on many TVs, monitors and computers.

Unlike the other video connectors, VGA is analog. That means not only does it not support high definition, it doesn't have as clear of a picture.

If VGA is your only option, then go ahead and use it. Otherwise, you'll want something a bit better.

DVI
You've most likely linked your home PC's monitor to a digital video interface port at some point. The signal is basically the same as an HDMI port, but DVI cables generally don't support audio. Most modern TVs will probably have a DVI port, but DVI cables aren't going to plug all of your gadgets into your TV.

DVI cables come in single and dual links. Single links can support resolutions up to 1900 x 1200. Dual links can support higher resolutions and multiple screens at the same time.

The biggest reason that DVI ports didn't exactly catch on was the lack of a standard feature-set. Different DVI cables can do different things, and that's confusing for most people.

HDMI
High definition multimedia interfaces are the standard for any gadget that plugs into your TV. HDMI cables play both audio and video through your TV, though you might have to do a little fiddling with your audio settings if you're running a media center PC to your TV.

As with most gadgets, even HDMI cables have generational differences. HDMI 2.0, released in 2013, boasts support for 4k video formats and stronger signal strength. This basically means that you'll be seeing more frames on the biggest TV you can get your hands on.


If you bought an HDMI cable before 2013, you're using version 1.3 or 1.4. HDMI 1.4 supports 3-D TVs and streams data to and from your TV more quickly.

You can pick up the latest generation of HDMI cable is available for about $10 on Amazon, but only the most detail-oriented of living room cinephiles will notice the difference.

DisplayPort
DisplayPort is slowly taking over the market by the power of simplicity. There's only one DisplayPort plug. Oh, and it runs your gadgets through your TV at 60 frames a second.

It handles audio, too. The only real limitation of the DisplayPort tech is that its ability to ferry information to and from a TV dips as the cable lengthens.

For most everyone's purposes, though, it's a single dongle that will connect all of your gadgets straight into your TV at the highest possible quality. If your computer doesn't have a slot for DisplayPort connections, you can find adapters online for relatively cheap (at the cost of some quality).

The other limitation of DisplayPort is market penetration. It's a relatively new format, and it will take most tech manufacturers a hot minute to warm up to it. Like I said, though, adapters are cheap and easy to find.

How much to pay for cables

Don't let yourself be upsold on overpriced cables. Any electronics store is going to have run-of-the-mill cables, but many of them also have "gold-plated" cables at an insane mark-up.

Speaking of gold, here are my tips on how to protect your valuables from burglars by getting in their heads.

The concept that lets the retailers justify the insane price is that specific (and expensive) materials transmit video faster than others. The packaging of these expensive cables doesn't really explain this, and usually boasts about massive quality increases.

The truth is that any cable will probably work. Compare prices online and look for a cheap, well-reviewed cable to suit your needs.

Why not sign up for my newsletter? We will never sell or sell your email address. Unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe link at the bottom of the newsletter.
Email Newsletter icon, E-mail Newsletter icon, Email List icon, E-mail List icon Sign up for our Email Newsletter


For Email Marketing you can trust


My Photo

Carl Thorne
Expert Computer Consulting 

Delete your Facebook history so it doesn't come back to haunt you by Kim Komando

Nothing you put up on Facebook goes away on its own. Your profile probably has photos and status updates in it from years ago that you don't even remember posting.

Unfortunately, some of these posts might be things that you wouldn't post today. Maybe you posted them with the wrong privacy settings and everyone can see them.

Read my step-by-step guide to lock down your Facebook profile privacy settings.

Either way, taking some time to look at and clean up your Facebook history is never a bad thing. Otherwise, old posts can come back to bite you in a job search, relationship, legal case or phishing scam.

Fortunately, Facebook makes it easy to review and clean up old posts.

The Activity Log

The Activity Log shows you everything you've ever done on Facebook. That's handy, but if you've been on Facebook for years be aware that this could take a while.

To get started, log in to Facebook. Then click the down arrow in the upper right corner and select Activity Log.

Facebook Activity Log

The Activity Log might seem a little overwhelming at first with thousands of entries to scroll through, but Facebook has a few tools to make things easier.

Facebook Activity Log Filters

In the left-hand column you'll see a huge list of filters. These show you just the posts in your Timeline about those topics.

For example, if you only want to look at things you've posted in the past, select "Your Posts." You can also just look at "Photos," things you've "Liked" and "Comments" you've made on posts, photos and videos.

Click the "More" link to see more filters like "Videos," "Groups" and "Location History." Location History is especially helpful if in the past you were a little too free with telling people where you were.

One thing you probably didn't know Facebook tracks is your search history. Everything you've searched for on Facebook is visible to anyone who gets access to your account.

To see your search history, click "More" under "Photos, Likes and Comments." Then click "Search" near the bottom of the list.

You can delete individual entries by clicking the "circle with a slash" icon and selecting Delete. You can also click "Clear Searches" at the top to wipe everything at once.

Of course, there's no way to turn off search history recording. So, you'll need to keep coming back to delete your history if you don't want it recorded - or just stop searching on Facebook.

At the very bottom, you can also see what apps you've installed and what posts they've made on your Timeline. At the top of the log, you can also changing the settings on who can see the posts the apps make.

Limit Past Posts

I mentioned earlier that you might have posted with the wrong privacy settings in the past. Changing every post manually from "Everyone" to "Friends" could take days.

Fortunately, Facebook has a quicker option.

At the top of the page, click the upside-down triangle and select Settings.

Facebook profile menu

Then click the Privacy link in the left-hand column. Under "Who can see my stuff?" click the "Limit Past Posts" link.

Facebook Privacy Settings

Then click the "Limit Old Posts" button to change the privacy setting of every post in your profile to "Friends." Note that if you have posts that you want everyone to see, this will change those as well.

Download your history

Your entire Facebook history is available in your account, but what if you want it offline? Yep, Facebook lets you download the whole thing.

In fact, it doesn't just include everything in your profile and activity log. The downloaded data includes ads you've clicked and their topics, the IP addresses of the gadgets you use to access Facebook, your entire Chat history, every email address you've every used on Facebook and more.

To download this information, open Facebook, click the upside-down triangle in the upper right corner and select Settings. On the first page, click the "Download a copy" link.

Facebook General settings

Then click the "Start My Archive" button.

Facebook Start My Archive

You'll need to re-enter your password and then click another Start My Archive button. When your information is ready for download, Facebook will send you an email with a link.

When you click the link you'll got to a page with a "Download Archive" button. Click it and then enter your password again. Then you can finally download the Zip file.

Open the Zip file by double-clicking on it, or if that doesn't work use a program like 7-Zip. Drag the file contents to your desktop or another folder, and then double-click the "index.htm" file.

Your information will appear in your browser so you can look through it. Just be aware that most of the extra information, like ad clicks and email addresses, can't be removed from Facebook if you don't want it in Facebook's records.

If you want it gone, you'll have to delete your account entirely. You can do that at this page: https://www.facebook.com/help/delete_account

Just think hard before you click "Delete Account" because it will be gone forever.

Why not sign up for my newsletter? We will never sell or sell your email address. Unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe link at the bottom of the newsletter.
Email Newsletter icon, E-mail Newsletter icon, Email List icon, E-mail List icon Sign up for our Email Newsletter


For Email Marketing you can trust


My Photo

Carl Thorne
Expert Computer Consulting 

Tweak your mouse and keyboard settings by Kim Komand

I've told you in the past how to get the most out of your keyboard and mouse,
but what if your mouse doesn't work quite like you want? You might want it to move a bit faster, or the extra buttons don't do quite what you want.
In Windows you can go to Control Panel and under "Hardware and Sound" click "Mouse." This lets you tweak a few of the settings - including the cursor speed.

What if you want to do more?

If you have a Microsoft mouse or keyboard - and you're running Windows 8 - Microsoft has a special Mouse and Keyboard Center to help you make the most of your hardware.

You can customize how fast your mouse moves, scrolls up and down pages, and troubleshoot problems. The Mouse and Keyboard center will also update the drivers for your gadgets to make sure your mouse and keyboard are always up to date.

Note: Your hardware must be Microsoft brand for the program to detect it. If you are using a mouse or keyboard that is not Windows brand, the Mouse and Keyboard Center won't do anything.

Download Instructions

To download the Microsoft Mouse and Keyboard Center, navigate to the Microsoft download page with the link provided. There are two red text links for 32-bit and 64-bit systems.

To find out which version you need, go to the Start Menu>>Control Panel>>System and Security>>System. The System Type will tell you what kind of operating system you have.

Click the appropriate link for your operating system to start the download. When the download is complete, open and run the installation file.

Be sure to read the License Agreement before continuing. Remember, always read the fine print.

The installation will recommend that you sign up for dynamic content. This will allow the program to automatically check for updates to your hardware drivers. I recommend checking this box.

You will also be asked to sign up for the Customer Experience Improvement program, which will send information about your usage to Microsoft. You do not have to sign up for this service feature.

When the installation is finished, you can customize your Microsoft mouse and keyboard to perfectly fit your computer usage to give yourself the best computer experience.

Why not sign up for my newsletter? We will never sell or sell your email address. Unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe link at the bottom of the newsletter.
Email Newsletter icon, E-mail Newsletter icon, Email List icon, E-mail List icon Sign up for our Email Newsletter


For Email Marketing you can trust


My Photo

Carl Thorne
Expert Computer Consulting 

Is Chrome OS right for you? by Kim Komando

Q. I am a PC guy. I wouldn't use Macs even if you paid me! However, I have recently become frustrated with my Windows 7 machine. I am thinking about a Chromebook or a Chromebox from Google. What are the pros and cons of the Chrome operating system?

A. For decades, Mac and PC have been the major players in the world of consumer computers. A few years back, however, Google decided to step into the game with Chrome OS.

Chrome OS is a very light operating system that's based on the Chrome browser and Linux - a popular OS in advanced tech circles.

One of the major perks of the Chrome OS is incredibly fast booting - a few seconds. That's because there's a browser, a media player and not much else.

Most of the programs you'll use are Web apps that run online. This gives you flexibility to run games, online productivity sites and streaming content.

Plus, Chrome OS stores all your data in the cloud so you never have to worry about losing data in computer crashes. This also means you can log in to any Chrome OS system and immediately have all your information and apps.

On the surface that sounds great, but there are a few obstacles. For example, the only systems that run Chrome OS are Chromebooks and the Chromebox.

Chromebooks are ultra-portable laptops that range from $199-$429. They have solid state drives and can be upgraded with 3G cellular. The Chromebox is a tiny desktop that resembles the Mac Mini and costs $330. That's actually decent pricing.

However, everything a Chrome computer does is online, so you'll need always-on Web access. A few apps do have an offline mode, but if you're a frequent traveler or don't have access to broadband Internet, you'll want to steer clear.

Unless you have very basic needs, I don't think a Chrome computer is fit to be your main system. However, it could be a good secondary device for basic use.

Of course, for that price, you can buy a tablet that will perform similar tasks. Consider a Chromebook only if you want a bit more power, a physical keyboard and the flexibility of Web-based apps.

As for the Chromebox: It might make a good media streaming device, but there are cheaper options. I'd avoid buying one unless you need only the most basic desktop features.

Although Chrome OS still isn't a sure thing, there are plenty of Google products that are big hits.     Chrome OS takes its name from one of my favorite browsers, Google Chrome.

Why not sign up for my newsletter? We will never sell or sell your email address. Unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe link at the bottom of the newsletter.
Email Newsletter icon, E-mail Newsletter icon, Email List icon, E-mail List icon Sign up for our Email Newsletter


For Email Marketing you can trust


My Photo

Carl Thorne
Expert Computer Consulting 

Making sense of memory cards by Kim Komando

Q. I'm taking a trip and need to grab a few more memory cards for my camera. I plan to take a lot of photos and some video. I was going to buy duplicates of the card I have, but my friend said I need something faster. How do I know what memory card is fast enough?
A. Taking several memory cards on a trip is a good idea. If one gets lost or breaks, you still have more.

I usually recommend buying several smaller cards rather than one big one just for this reason. Of course, no matter the size, you want to get a card with the right speed.

A card that's too slow will leave you waiting for files to transfer. Your camera might take seconds to take the next shot. You could miss a golden photo op while waiting for it to catch up.

You might decide to buy the fastest card, but you could be overspending. Plus, it might not even work with your gear. Fortunately, I can tell you what to look for.

First, you need to know what kind of card you're using. The most common type is the Secure Digital card.

When buying an SD card, you'll have a few choices to make before you even consider the speed.

There are three physical sizes of SD card: SD, miniSD and microSD. It's usually printed on the card so it's easy to tell what size you have. If you don't have a card already, check your gadget's manual to see what size card it takes.

Most cards will just list how much data they can hold. However, you might see other abbreviations dealing with storage amount.

Secure Digital Standard Capacity, or SDSC, cards can ranges from 1 megabyte to 4 gigabytes. Secure Digital High Capacity cards, or SDHC, range from 4GB to 32GB. Finally, Secure Digital eXtended Capacity, or SDXC, range from 32GB to 2 terabytes. Don't stress; you can ignore the abbreviation and just buy the amount you need.

Now that you know about choosing physical size and digital size, let's talk about speed.

There are five SD speed classes: 2, 4, 6, 10 and UHS. These represent minimum write speed; read speeds will be faster. For HD video recording, you want a class 6 or 10.

Check your gadget's manual for a recommended class. Some equipment will be optimized for a specific speed. There's no use spending extra on a class 10 card if your equipment won't support it.

UHS is faster than the other classes. However, these cards require compatible gear. You can't just put a UHS card in a regular SD slot and expect it to work. Again, check your gadget's manual to see what it supports.

SD isn't the only memory card type on the market. There's also CompactFlash, although it's becoming less common.

CompactFlash uses a different rating system entirely. And, predictably, it's even more confusing. It is based on a 150 kilobyte-per-second transfer rate.

For example, you might see a CF card labeled 45x. That means it transfer 45 times 150KBps. In other words, it transfers 6.75 megabytes of information a second.

You will also see 50x, 133x, 266x, 300x and 600x cards. For high-definition video, you'll want at least 266x. That's a 40 MB/sec transfer rate.

There is a problem, though. Manufacturers differ on what "transfer rate" means. Some use it to mean read speed; others to mean write speed. Some use it to mean both; others just make up a number.

Write speed is generally going to be less than read speed. A card with 266x read speed could have a much slower write speed. And it often won't say on the packaging.

Some manufacturers, like Kingston, specifically address read and write speeds. Other manufacturers are deliberately vague. You will want to do some research before buying a manufacturer's product.

There is one final thing to consider when buying any memory card. You may not actually have the memory card you think.

Counterfeit memory cards are very easy to find. These are typically offered for fantastic deals online, and they will look completely genuine. However, they will be slow and probably die quickly.

Click here to learn how to recover photos from a bad memory card.

You should buy cards only from legitimate retailers. Buying from a brick-and-mortar store is even better. You might still run across counterfeit cards, but you can return the card if it fails.

photos and some video. I was going to buy duplicates of the card I have, but my friend said I need something faster. How do I know what memory card is fast enough?

Why not sign up for my newsletter? We will never sell or sell your email address. Unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe link at the bottom of the newsletter.
Email Newsletter icon, E-mail Newsletter icon, Email List icon, E-mail List icon Sign up for our Email Newsletter


For Email Marketing you can trust

My Photo

Carl Thorne
Expert Computer Consulting 

Sunday, April 27, 2014

Simple steps to improve your TV’s picture by Kim Komando

I was in the store the other day and saw some people ooh-ing and aah-ing over a demo of those new 4K TVs. They were going on about the detail and the motion smoothness and the vivid colors.

I’ll tell you something though; if they took it home with them they’d be very disappointed. It isn’t the TV’s fault though – any new TV is doing to be a disappointment when you get it home.

Want to get the best TV for your money? Read my HDTV buying guide before heading to the store.

That’s because new TVs aren’t calibrated correctly for your home’s lighting, so the colors will look off. I regularly get questions from disappointed buyers asking if they got a defective set.

If you buy a floor-model TV, it will be even worse. Those sets have heavily tweaked saturation and hues designed to catch your eye in fluorescent lighting. Once you get it into standard lighting or a dark room, however, it looks terrible.

You could pay an expert to set your TV up the right way, but unless you’re creating up a high-end home theater, you can get fine results doing it yourself. There are two ways to go about it.

1. Use your eyes (Fast and decent)
Head over to a site called TweakTV and put in your TV model. It will have suggested settings for contrast, hue, brightness, sharpness and color temperature. Look in your TV manual to find out how to find these settings on your TV.

Did you buy your TV a while ago and don’t have the manual? You can probably find it here.

Once you have the default settings in, grab a few of your favorite movies. Jump to some scenes that are light, dark, filled with people and colorful.

Adjust the brightness so shadows are as black as they can get while still showing detail. Then adjust the contrast up so the white spaces are as white as they can be while still showing detail.

Then adjust the color temperature until skin tones and colors look natural. If your TV has saturation controls, you can fine-tune how vivid the colors look – you want the sweet spot between washed out and unreal.

Once you get a good look, test it with a few more movies at different lighting levels in the room. You also might need to turn the TV off a few times and come back after a few minutes to see it with fresh eyes.

2. Use a calibration disc (Slower and higher quality)

To start, you’ll need a calibration disc for your DVD or Blu-ray player. Calibration discs walk you

It works well in most cases, but don’t be afraid to tweak certain settings to your specific liking. It’s your HDTV, so the best picture is the one that you like the most.

There are a few ways to get a calibration disc. AVS Calibration lets you create your own disc on your computer as long as you have a DVD or Blu-ray creation program like DVD Flick.

Some movies have a calibration tool built in, as well. Check your collection for any of these THX-certified movies or order a calibration disc from Netflix. THX has a calibration app that works on some smartphones and tablets, too.

Side note: THX recommends that you use a pair of blue-filtered glasses with its calibration system, which it sells for $5. There’s another setting that lets you fix your colors without them, but pick up the glasses for the best results.

THX helps you improves your HDTV’s sound quality, too. Or you can tweak your treble and bass yourself for personalized sound.

Is all this effort worth it?

In a word, yes. The quality we have available to us in our homes is extraordinary. If you’ve spent the big bucks on the TV, take the time to make it worth every penny!
through each setting and give you carefully created visual images to help guide your tweaking.

Friday, April 25, 2014

Sleep, Shut Down, and Hibernate: Do power-saving settings matter anymore? by Kim Komando

One of the big reasons people don’t turn their computer off regularly is that it’s so slow to start up again. That’s why other power-saving options exist that are faster.

I’m sure you’ve seen the Sleep and Hibernate options. But now Windows 8 also has Fast Boot and Hybrid Shutdown built in. And then there are high-speed solid-state hard drives that can make a big difference.

If your head is swimming at the possibilities, don’t worry; it isn’t as bad as you think.

Since not everyone has Windows 8 or a solid-state hard drive, let’s take a look at the more universal Sleep and Hibernate first.

Sleep
Sleep is the older option, so more people are comfortable using it. Plus, on some computers – such as desktops – this is the only option.

When you put your computer into Sleep mode, it’s like pausing a DVD. Your computer stops exactly where you were. It grabs your open files, folders and programs and throws them into your computer’s RAM.

Your processor, hard drive, graphics system and everything else are turned off, or put on minimum power. When you turn the computer back on, it loads up your information from RAM and is ready to go almost instantly.

Of course, your RAM will still use power to remember your data. And if power goes out, all your work is lost. I hope you saved!

Since desktops are always plugged in, sudden power loss isn’t a huge worry. However, a laptop may not always be connected. If you use Sleep on an unplugged laptop, it could eventually spell trouble.

That’s why there’s Hibernate.


Hibernate
Unlike Sleep, Hibernate saves your information to the hard drive, then it shuts down everything, just like turning off the computer.

Hibernate won’t drain your laptop’s battery and it doesn’t care about power loss, so that’s good. However, conventional hard drives are much, much slower at transferring information than RAM.

That means it takes longer to start up from Hibernate mode than Sleep mode. It is still faster than a traditional start up though.

Hybrid Sleep
There is also a little-known third option. It’s called Hybrid Sleep or Safe Sleep. Like the name implies, it combines Sleep and Hibernate.

Your open programs and work are saved to RAM and the hard drive. If your computer doesn’t lose power overnight, it stays in Sleep mode. If you lose power for some reason, Hibernate kicks in.

To activate Hybrid Sleep, go to Control Panel >>Hardware and Sounds>>Power Options. Choose “Change plan settings” under your selected plan and then “Change Advanced power settings.” Turn on Hybrid Sleep.

To use Hybrid Sleep once it’s turned on, just choose “Sleep” as normal.

This feature is only available in Windows 7 and later. Not all desktops will offer Hybrid Sleep or Hibernate.

As for Macs, Safe Sleep is turned on automatically. Click the Apple logo at the top of the screen and select “Sleep” to activate it, or just shut your laptop lid.

Windows 8
With Windows 8, Microsoft decided to speed things up a little, so it enables Fast Boot and Hybrid Shutdown by default. So, when you choose the Shutdown option, you’re really choosing Hybrid Shutdown.

This works something like Hibernate, but it doesn’t save your open programs and files. It saves other parts of the Windows system to your hard drive to make booting up again faster with Fast Boot.

Sleep, Shut Down, and Hibernate: Do power-saving settings matter anymore?
If you don’t care about leaving your programs open, then shutting your computer down in Windows 8 is both the fastest and the best power-saving option.

To keep your open programs when you start up again, however, you can still use the Sleep option. You can also go into the Windows 8 power settings in Control Panel to enable good old Hibernate.

Handy trick: Because of the way Windows 8 handles shutdown now, shutting the computer down and booting it back up again won’t fix many of the problems it used to. Instead, you need to choose the Restart option to get a “cold boot.” Learn why rebooting a computer usually fixes so many problems.

Solid-state drives
Many laptops and upper range desktops have solid-state drives installed. If you want more details on the benefits and drawbacks of solid-state vs. conventional hard drives, click here.

The bottom line, however, is that SSDs are much faster than conventional drives and can make your computer boot up in half the time or less.

So, a computer with an SSD booting up is just about as fast as a computer with a conventional drive starting from Hibernate. A Windows 8 computer with an SSD it is about as fast as booting an older computer from Sleep.

Plus, SSDs draw a lot less power in general.

In other words, if you have a computer with an SSD, don’t worry about power saving features. Figure out what option you like best – shut down, hibernate, sleep, leaving the computer on – and go with that.
again. That’s why other power-saving options exist that are faster.

Eight business-class alternatives to Dropbox By Ed Bott for The Ed Bott Report

Summary: Dropbox has become one of the world's most popular cloud storage services by focusing on consumers. But businesses have different needs, and a recent controversial move by the company offers an opportunity to take a fresh look at alternative services that might be more suitable for your business.


Dropbox stirred up a hornet’s nest last week with the announcement that it had appointed Condoleezza Rice to its board of directors.

Part of the controversy is political. Rice was Secretary of State in the George W. Bush administration a decade ago and was part of the team that authorized the invasion of Iraq.

But the appointment is even more surprising given the former National Security Advisor’s role in establishing and defending warrantless wiretapping by the National Security Agency, a program that started in 2002 and was revealed publicly in 2005.

That combination led one group to start a Drop Dropbox campaign and forced the company into damage-control mode with a "we should have been clearer" statement from Dropbox CEO Drew Houston. But as more than 1000 comments on that post made clear, the move was not well received.

After revelations in documents leaked by Edward Snowden suggested that American tech companies were cooperating with the NSA – accusations that all of those companies vigorously denied – Forrester estimated that those companies (including Dropbox) could lose $180 billion in business over the next few years as customers shun American cloud services.

Even if you can ignore the politics, the controversy provides an opportunity to take a fresh look at your cloud storage options. Dropbox has grown to be among the largest cloud storage services in the world, with more than 200 million users, by focusing on consumers. But businesses have different needs, including robust encryption, reliability, and compliance with regulatory requirements like HIPAA.

If you’re a subscriber to the Tech Pro Research service, you can read my detailed analysis of the business criteria to consider in choosing a cloud service (see Six business-class cloud storage services: Which one is right for you?).

In this post, I offer a capsule summary of eight worthy alternatives to Dropbox. Most of the services on this list, which is presented in alphabetical order, offer basic consumer storage as well as more feature-rich business-oriented offerings.

Box https://www.box.com/

This service, which has been in business for nearly a decade under CEO wunderkind Aaron Levie, shifted its focus from consumer accounts to businesses long ago. As of early 2014, the company claimed 34,000 paying business customers. Its basic business accounts offer a total of 1000 GB of storage for $15 per user per month (with a minimum of 3 users). Box is especially attractive to Microsoft shops, with Windows Phone and native Windows 8 apps. It also offers excellent Office integration with a free add-in for Office 2007, Office 2010, and Office 2013 that lets you open, save, and share files from the cloud without having to leave the Office programs.

Copy https://www.copy.com/

This relatively new service is backed by Barracuda, a company best known for its enterprise security and spam-filtering appliances and services. A personal Copy account provides 15 GB of storage, with no limits on the size of individual files; paid storage upgrades to 250 or 500 GB are available. The business service, Copy for Companies offers central management tools and “as much storage as you need*”: the asterisk leads to a disclaimer that defines that storage capacity “based on typical user usage across the industry,” whatever that means. If you need five or fewer accounts, you can get a Copy for Companies account for free, with storage limited by each user’s personal account allotment.

Google Drive https://drive.google.com

Google Drive, introduced in 2012, is the new name for what used to be the file storage component of Google Docs. That’s still its main job, despite the fact that Google Drive has sync clients for every platform except Linux and offers 15 GB of storage to go with its free Gmail accounts and 30 GB for each paid Google Apps for Business account. Google recently announced dramatic price cuts to its storage upgrades for individual accounts, with a terabyte of extra storage costing $10 a month. Business storage upgrades (which are purchased in bulk and then assigned to individual users) cost considerably more: $7.50 a month for 50 GB, $89 for 1 TB, all the way up to $1,430 for 16 TB.

Intermedia SecuriSync http://securisync.com/

Intermedia is the largest third-party provider of hosted Microsoft Exchange services in the world, with an impressive range of services and world-class support. SecuriSync is the latest addition to Intermedia's suite of online services and is included as a feature in its Enterprise plan, which includes Exchange, SharePoint, and Lync. Data meets the core standards for enterprise-grade security, with encryption in transit and at rest. There are no limitations on file size, and the integration with Office apps and Windows networks (including Active Directory support) is excellent. You can also sign up for SecuriSync as a stand-alone service: The entry-level cost is $5 per user per month, which includes 10 GB of storage space per account. Bumping the per-user cost to $10 per month is a significantly better deal, at 50 GB per user.

Microsoft OneDrive https://onedrive.com

The Service Formerly Known as SkyDrive offers 7 GB of free storage with every account. Attaching an Office 365 Home or Personal subscription adds 20 GB to that total, and additional storage is available as a paid upgrade. The killer feature of OneDrive is integration with Office Online, which allows you to create, edit, and share Office files in a web browser from any device (including an iPad). Although the service is aimed at consumers, there are no license restrictions to prevent commercial use. Client software is available for Windows 7 and up and for OS X, iOS, Android, and Windows Phone.

Microsoft OneDrive for Business https://onedrive.com/business

As of last month, Microsoft’s enterprise-grade storage is available as a standalone product. You’re more likely to use it as one of the pieces in Office 365’s business plans, however. In Small Business, Midsize Business, and Enterprise plans, each user account gets 25 GB of secure online storage as well as 50 GB for Exchange email. In addition, the organizational account gets 10 GB plus an extra 500 MB per user for sharing files via SharePoint. Extra storage for the organization account is available for $0.20 per gigabyte per month (which works out to $20 per month for an extra 100 GB). The control panel in Midsize and Enterprise allows that extra storage to be assigned to individual OneDrive for Business accounts.

SpiderOak https://spideroak.com/


You would think, based on SpiderOak’s feature set, that it was the first post-Snowden cloud service, and yet it's been in business since 2007. The company's "zero knowledge" privacy design means it never sees your password, it never has access to your encryption keys, and it receives, stores, and sends only encrypted files. SpiderOak staff can't even retrieve metadata such as the names or sizes of files; instead, they see sequentially numbered containers of encrypted data. Individual accounts start with 2 GB of free storage. Upgrades, in 100 GB increments, cost $10 a month or $100 a year. The SpiderOak Blue business service starts at $600 a month, with a terabyte of storage for up to 100 users. The company will even allow you to store data on your own servers and use its authentication and access tools. A small-business version of the Blue service is “coming soon.”

Wuala https://wuala.com/

The major selling point of this service, besides the fact that it’s based in Switzerland, is that your data is encrypted from end to end. “Your password never leaves your computer. Nobody - not even we as storage provider - can access your data without your authorization.” Wuala Business accounts start at $429 a year for five users and a total of 100 GB of storage. Since 2009, the service has been owned by LaCie, which in turn was acquired by Seagate at the end of 2013. LaCie recently suffered an embarrassing security breach in its e-commerce website. There’s no indication that the storage service has suffered any similar problems, however.

iOS 7.1.1 aims for Touch ID, keyboard fixes by Dan Moren

If something about iOS 7.1 just didn’t sit right for you, no worries: Here comes iOS 7.1.1 to give it another shot.

The update came down the pipes on Tuesday for all devices compatible with iOS 7, but if you’re expecting big sweeping changes, you’re probably in for disappointment. The three issues mentioned in the release note are all fairly minor: further improvements to Touch ID on the iPhone 5s, a fix for a bug that could “impact keyboard responsiveness,” and a patch for a specific issue regarding VoiceOver when using a Bluetooth keyboard. There are also security improvements though, as of this writing, Apple hadn’t yet posted a list.

As always, iOS 7.1.1 is available both by plugging your iOS device into your computer and downloading the update through iTunes or over the air, by visiting Settings > General > Software Update.

With just six weeks to go until Apple’s Worldwide Developers Conference—and the presumptive announcement of iOS 8—the likelihood of another major release for iOS 7 seems pretty low. iOS 6 topped out at version 6.1.6 and iOS 5 at version 5.1.1. The last second major release we saw on iOS was version 4.2, which arrived in November 2010. So, at this point, all steam ahead for iOS 8!

Monday, April 21, 2014

The one browser trick you should use, but probably don’t by Kim Komando

If you’re like many people, most of your time on your computer, tablet or smartphone is spent in your
browser. It makes sense; your browser is your portal to the entire Internet.

But today I’m going to talk about a more basic browser function that surprisingly not a lot of people use to its full potential. I’m talking about bookmarks.

These make it simple to load sites you visit often, or a quick way to save pages to read later. But too often I see people manually typing in their favorite sites over and over, or leaving browser tabs open indefinitely.

So, without further ado, I’m going to walk you through creating them, organizing them and some cool tricks you can do with them.

Special reminder: Don’t forget to bookmark the most essential sites around, i.e. my homepage, blog and viral videos.

Creating bookmarks
When you want to bookmark a site you’re viewing, simply press Ctrl + D on your keyboard. The page you’re on will be added to your browser’s bookmark folder automatically. This works in every major browser except Safari. The shortcut in Safari is Command + D.

Not a keyboard shortcut person? Every major browser uses a star to represent bookmarks. It might show up in the address bar, or somewhere to the left or right of the address bar.

In Firefox, Chrome and Safari, clicking the star automatically adds the bookmark to your bookmarks folder. Clicking the star again lets you edit the bookmark name and choose its location in your bookmarks, or delete it.

For Internet Explorer, click the star icon opens the bookmarks menu. Then you click the “Add to favorites” button.

To bookmark in your default Android browser, simply press the menu button on your phone and tap “Save to bookmarks.” For iPhones and iPads, tap the + icon and then tap “Add bookmark.” You’ll have to give to the page a name before you can save it.

Organizing bookmarks
Seeing your bookmarks is a little different in every browser. In IE, click on the star icon near the upper right corner and go to the Favorites tab.
For Firefox, click the Firefox button and go to Bookmarks>>Show All Bookmarks. In the next version of Firefox, you’ll click a clipboard next to the star icon and select Show All Bookmarks.

In Chrome, click the icon with the 3 horizontal lines in the upper right and select Bookmarks>>Bookmark Manager. For Safari, the Bookmark folder is visible on the main screen.
Once you’re in the browser’s bookmarks area, you can delete your bookmarks or organize them into folders.

Bookmarks toolbar
One folder you should pay special attention to when organizing is the bookmarks bar (sometimes called the “bookmarks toolbar” or “favorites bar”).

Any bookmarks in this folder will appear in a toolbar below the address bar in your browser. That makes it a good place to put bookmarks you check multiple times during the day.

If your bookmark toolbar isn’t visible, you’ll need to turn it on. In IE and Firefox, right-click in a blank spot next to the browser tabs. For IE, select Favorites bar, and for Firefox select Bookmarks Toolbar.

In Chrome, click the horizontal line icon and select Bookmarks>>Show Bookmarks Bar.

Using the bookmark toolbar lets you do some other fun tricks. For example, in Firefox, you can drag a tab to the bookmark toolbar to create an instant bookmark of that page. In IE and Chrome click the page or butterfly icon next to the address and drag it to the bookmark toolbar to do the same thing.

You can also create folders on your bookmark toolbar. Not only does this keep similar bookmarks together, if you middle-click on the folder, or right-click and select Open all, you can open all the bookmarks in that folder at once.

So, for example, you could create a Komando folder and load my homepage, blog and viral videos pages at the same time with a click.

Why not sign up for my newsletter? We will never sell or sell your email address. Unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe link at the bottom of the newsletter.
Email Newsletter icon, E-mail Newsletter icon, Email List icon, E-mail List icon Sign up for our Email Newsletter


For Email Marketing you can trust

Carl Thorne
Expert Computer Consulting 

What Documents Should I Shred and What Should I Keep? by LifeHacker

Dear Lifehacker,
I have a giant pile of important looking documents sitting in front of me, and I have no idea what to do with them. Some of them look pointless, but could be important. Which ones should I hold on to, and which ones should I shred?

Sincerely,
What's this Garbage

Blast from the past is a weekly feature at Lifehacker in which we revive old, but still relevant, posts for your reading and hacking pleasure. Now that tax day has come and gone, we figured it was time for a good refresher on what to shred and what to keep.

Dear WG,
We all get a ton of junk in the mail—whether it's credit card applications, insurance packets, or a 60-page retirement fund report from a job you had 10 years ago. Thankfully, deciding what to keep is simple, and once you do you can shred pretty much everything else.
The Important Documents You Need to Keep

What Documents Should I Shred and What Should I Keep?
Depending what type of documents you're dealing with, you need to store some of them for certain periods of time, others you can digitize, and others you can throw away. Let's start with the documents you need to keep physical copies of forever:

  •     Birth and death certificates
  •     Social security cards
  •     Pension plan documents
  •     ID cards and passports
  •     Marriage license
  •     Business license
  •     Any insurance policy (good to keep even if they have a digital copy in case problems come up)
  •     Wills, living wills, and powers of attorney
  •     Vehicle titles and loan documents
  •     House deeds and mortgage documents

In general, you want to keep physical copies of anything related to state or federal matters, including certifications, licenses, or deeds. The reason is twofold: you want to have easy access to these in case you need them, and they're also a pain to replace because you typically need to make a direct request to the government agency, which takes a lot of time.

If you're unsure what to do with these important documents, we recommend keeping an "in case of emergency kit" so you always know where they are. You can also use a webapp like Get Your Sh*t Together to gather everything you need to keep for the long term.

The second subset of documents to hold onto relates to documents you need to keep for a little while. With these, you can follow our guide to going paperless and scan them in if you like, or just store these documents in a safe place:

  •     Tax records and receipts (keep for seven years)
  •     Pay stubs and bank statements (keep for a year)
  •     Home purchase, sale, or improvement documents (keep for at least six years after you sell)
  •     Medical records and bills (keep at least a year after payment in case of disputes)
  •     Warranty documents and receipts (keep as long as you own them)

Finally, the last subset is the documents you need to keep the most recent version of:

  •     Social security statements
  •     Annual insurance policy statements
  •     Retirement plan statements (401(k), 529, IRA, etc)
That's pretty much it. Once you know what to keep, organize them in a filing cabinet and you're all set. A good rule of thumb to think about when you're deciding what to keep is to think about how hard that document is to replace. If you need to venture down to a government office, wait in line at a hospital, or sit on the phone for an hour, then it's likely best to hold onto it. If you can easily pop online and see a document, then you likely don't need to keep a physical copy.

Shred Everything Else

Everything else you have you can safely shred or throw away. You should shred anything that has personal information like your name, address, phone number, social security number, or bank account information.

This might include a few documents you don't initially think about, including ATM receipts, credit card receipts, bills, and even used airline tickets. You should also immediately shred expired credit cards, visas, passports, and IDs. The best way to shred documents is with a good cross cut shredder like this one.

Happy shredding,
Lifehacker

Why not sign up for my newsletter? We will never sell or sell your email address. Unsubscribe at any time by clicking the unsubscribe link at the bottom of the newsletter.
Email Newsletter icon, E-mail Newsletter icon, Email List icon, E-mail List icon Sign up for our Email Newsletter


For Email Marketing you can trust

Carl Thorne
Expert Computer Consulting