What Are USB Gen 1, Gen 2, and Gen 2×2? by JOSH HENDRICKSON

Talaj/Shutterstock

Finding the fastest USB connection used to be easy: choose USB 3.0 instead of 2.0. But now, you’ll need to know the difference between USB 3.2 Gen 1, Gen 2, and Gen 2×2—and what various types of “SuperSpeed” mean, too.

USB Naming Used to Be Simple

kontrymphoto/Shutterstock

Once upon a time, USB came in two main flavors, 2.0 and 3.0. All you needed to know about them was 3.0 was faster than 2.0. You could buy a USB 2.0 flash drive and plug it into a computer that had USB 3.0 slots, and it would still work—just at the slower USB 2.0 speeds. Buying a USB 3.0 drive and plugging it into a USB 2.0 port would give you USB 2.0 speeds, too.

If you wanted the fastest speed possible, you’d get a USB 3.0 drive and plug it into a USB 3.0 USB port. It was simple and straightforward. But everything changed with USB 3.1.

USB 3.1 Muddied the Naming Waters

USB-IF

The USB Implementors Forums (USB-IF) maintains USB specifications and compliance, and it’s behind the naming schemes found on USB cables and devices. When it introduced USB 3.1, rather than keep things simple and let that name differentiate from USB 3.0, it called the new standard “USB 3.1 Gen 2.” USB 3.0 was retroactively renamed “USB 3.1 Gen 1.”

To further complicate things, the transfer speeds themselves received names. USB 3.1 Gen 1, originally known as USB 3.0, is capable of 5 Gbps transfer speeds—that’s called SuperSpeed.

USB 3.1 Gen 2 is capable of 10 Gbps transfer speeds—that’s called SuperSpeed+. Technically, it accomplishes this by using 128b/132b encoding in a full-duplex communications mode. Full-duplex communication is exciting because that means information can be transferred and received at the same time. That’s why it’s faster.

The difference between the two was slightly confusing. But, as long as you remembered Gen 2 was better than Gen 1, you were good to go. To help differentiate the speeds, USB-IF also implemented logos, which manufacturer can only use by passing a certification to prove a cable matches the promised specs.

USB 3.2 is Even Faster and More Confusing

USB-IF

Last September, the USB-IF detailed out new possible speeds for USB-C, and the beginnings of the USB 3.2 specification. USB 3.2 will be capable of 20 Gbps speeds. That’s double the transfer speeds of USB 3.1 Gen 2. If you’re wondering how the cables are doubling their speed so quickly without changing size or connectors, it’s straight forward. USB products capable of 20 Gbps have two 10 Gbps channels. Think of it as more wiring jammed into the same cable.

Just like in previous iterations, this new standard is backward compatible for basic usage—but you won’t get the faster speed without all new hardware. If you buy a hard drive that promises a 20 Gbps transfer rate and plug it into your current computer, the hard drive will work, but at slower speeds that the USB ports on your machine can provide. You’ll have to update both ends of the connection to enjoy all the new benefits.

At Mobile World Congress 2019, the USB-IF announced the branding and naming schemes for the new standard. And once again, the previous naming will be discarded and changed retroactively.

Going forward, what used to be USB 3.0, with 5 Gbps transfer speeds, will be USB 3.2 Gen 1. USB 3.1 Gen 2, with its 10 Gbps speeds, will be renamed to USB 3.2 Gen 2.

The new 20 Gbps standard will be named USB 3.2 Gen 2×2, breaking the predictable pattern. Physically, this has two 10 Gbps channel, so it literally is 2×2. There’s a logic to the name, but it’s confusing, and you have to understand the hardware to realize it makes any sense.

Manufacturers Should Refer to “SuperSpeed” Instead

Amazon

USB-IF doesn’t want consumers to see these terms. Instead, it wants Gen 1 products marketed as SuperSpeed USB. It suggests manufacturers market Gen 2 products as SuperSpeed USB 10 Gbps and Gen 2×2 as SuperSpeed USB 20 Gbps. But that doesn’t mean manufacturers have to use these names. Manufacturers can use the Gen 2.2 nomenclature—or if they don’t bother to submit to testing and compliance, they can forgo the logos and use any name they feel like.

If manufacturers do comply, the naming issue is pretty straight forward. Look for “SuperSpeed” in the name and check if there’s a number. If you don’t see one, it’s the slowest USB 3.2 type. If you see a 10 or a 20, that’s the promise of 10 Gbps or 20 Gbps transfers. It might have been better if USB-IF had gone with SuperSpeed USB 5 Gbps for the slowest type. But at least it’s fairly straight forward.

In theory, USB logos should help. As seen in the image above, the SS and 10 denote that USB cable as a SuperSpeed cable capable of 10 Gbps transfers. Unfortunately, the USB-IF has not shown the official certification mark for SuperSpeed USB 20 yet. Presumably, it should be the same logo as above, just with a 20 in its place. But we don’t know that for certain yet.

If you remember USB-C’s early issues, this will probably seem very familiar. Read carefully before buying cables, and buy them from reputable, trusted sources. In the past, we’ve recommended Amazon Basics cables—but even with those you still need to look carefully. For instance, this Amazon Basics cable is USB-C but only offers 2.0 speeds. This Amazon Basics cable, which looks practically the same, offers 10 Gbps transfers and is marked as USB 3.1 Gen 2. And, of course, this doesn’t just apply to USB cables. It applies to any piece of hardware that uses USB-C.

Unfortunately, this is still a mess of confusing terms. You’ll need to do your due diligence when buying USB hardware to know exactly what you’re getting.

Read More

What Is Wireless HDMI and Should You Use It? by ANDREW HEINZMAN

Keith Muratori/Shutterstock

Wireless HDMI products have been around for almost a decade, but they haven’t gained a lot of popularity. But how does Wireless HDMI work, and should you buy Wireless HDMI productsfor your home?

Wireless HDMI is an Alternative to HDMI Cables

HDMI cables have been the standard medium for transferring high definition video for more than a decade. But HDMI cables have some obvious drawbacks. A couple of unruly HDMI cables can turn your entertainment center into a rat’s nest, and they can restrict your cable box or game consoles to a single room.

You’ve probably guessed this by now, but Wireless HDMI is a wireless high definition video solution that can solve some of the problems associated with HDMI cables. You can clean up your entertainment center, broadcast a single video source to TV’s all over your house, or mirror the display from your phone or computer to your TV.

There are a lot of Wireless HDMI products on the market, and they’re all pretty easy to set up. You plug a transmitter into the HDMI port of a video source and a receiver into the HDMI port of a TV, and that’s all there is to it.

RELATED: The Best Wireless HDMI Products for a Tidy Media Center and Multi-Room Video

It’s Like Bluetooth, but for Video

Unlike screen mirroring applications like Apple AirPlay, Wireless HDMI doesn’t require a Wi-Fi connection. The transmitter that you plug into your video source sends out a microwave frequency, and the receiver that’s plugged into your display decodes that frequency into high definition video. Think of it like Bluetooth, but for video.

Some (but not all) Wireless HDMI products have built-in IR transmitters. These transmitters allow you to use TV remotes to control devices from far away. These IR transmitters are necessary for a lot of Wireless HDMI setups. After all, running from one room to another to change TV channels would be a pain in the butt.

Like any form of wireless transmission, Wireless HDMI is prone to obstruction. Most Wireless HDMI products work around the 5 GHz microwave frequency, which can get congested by Wi-Fi and cellphone signals. Thankfully, most new Wireless HDMI products use dynamic frequency selection to adjust to the least congested frequency in your home automatically.

Alexander_Evgenyevich/Shutterstock

But when it comes to Wireless HDMI, latency is an unavoidable form of obstruction. A video signal has to be encoded, transmitted, received, and decoded before it’s displayed. As a result, most Wireless HDMI products have a bit of lag.

The range of Wireless HDMI products is usually the greatest indicator of their latency. Products like the J-Tech Digital HDbitT, which has a range of 660 feet, tend to have a few milliseconds of delay. But products like the Nyrius ARIES NPCS549, which has a range of 30 feet, are subject to a few undetectable microseconds of latency.

By now, you gamers have probably realized that wireless HDMI solutions aren’t good for broadcasting Xbox games around the house, but they can be used to remove the HDMI cables from your entertainment center.

Why Isn’t Wireless HDMI the Global Standard?

If Wireless HDMI is so cool, then why hasn’t it replaced HDMI cables? Well, there are no standards for Wireless HDMI, and none of the expensive Wireless HDMI products that are on the market are compatible with one another. Manufacturers could get together and push Wireless HDMI as the new standard for home video, but frankly, they have little incentive to develop technology that could be superseded by super fast data transfer formats like USB-C.

Right now, WHDI is the leading Wireless HDMI option. It operates around the 5 GHz frequency and supports 1080p and 3D video. Sadly, WHDI doesn’t support 4K, and it’s prone to interference from routers and cellphones. There was a push for global WHDI adoption a decade ago, and companies like Sharp and Philips actually built WHDI receivers into some TVs. But these WHDI TV’s weren’t very successful, and the format became relegated to niche status.

Some other Wireless HDMI formats have fallen by the wayside, including WiGig, which supported 4K video, and WirelessHD, which had some decent data transfer speeds. But there aren’t any new products that support these wireless formats, and they’ll eventually be forgotten.

Wireless HDMI is a Niche Product

Although Wireless HDMI can be extremely useful to some people, it doesn’t have a lot of potential for widespread adoption or practical use. There are a lot of problems with Wireless HDMI, and unless you’re trying to clean up your entertainment center or broadcast a cable signal into your basement, then you don’t have much of a reason to adopt the format.

What’s the biggest problem with Wireless HDMI? The price tag. Most Wireless HDMI kits run for about $200, and they only contain a single transmitter and a single receiver. You’d have to drop more than $1,000 to build up a decent army of Wireless HDMI products, and since they don’t support 4K, you might sacrifice some video quality in the process. Not to mention, most Wireless HDMI products can only communicate with one transmitter or receiver at a time. Broadcasting a single video source to multiple TV’s is just too expensive and difficult.

Dmitiri Ma/Shutterstock

Latency is another problem. TV watchers don’t need to worry about a few milliseconds of lag, but the latency added by a Wireless HDMI setup can make video games unplayable. There are some latency-free Wireless HDMI products for gamers, but they tend to have a range of about 30 feet, so they’re really only good for tidying up your entertainment center.

Of course, there are some situations where Wireless HDMI makes sense. Instead of paying the cable company to put a $200 set top box in every room, you could buy a couple of Wireless HDMI sets to broadcast a single cable box around the house. These Wireless HDMI sets should last you for a long time, and you can use them for different applications in the future.

Wireless HDMI is also a great way to clean up your entertainment center. If you don’t feel like buying $1000 in products, you could always pair a transmitter with an HDMI switch, and effectively remove most HDMI cables from your entertainment center in one fell swoop. Also, Wireless HDMI can make home projectors a lot more convenient, as you don’t have to dangle any cables from your ceiling.

---

Will Wireless HDMI become the global standard for video transfer? Fat chance. But it could replace HDMI cables in your home if you can find a good use for it.

Read More

Can Smart Thermostats Ruin Your Furnace? by CRAIG LLOYD

It may sound preposterous, but some people are afraid smart thermostats are bad for heating and air conditioning systems. Here’s the good news: You don’t have much to worry about, but there are some important things to keep in mind.

A relatively recent post on Reddit recounted an HVAC technician’s warning about smart thermostats:

“He said he never recommends them and that their company is REGULARLY replacing systems that have failed or prematurely broken down due to the Nest overworking the computing systems/motherboards built in to most HVAC units—even brand new models.”

The technician isn’t completely full of it. If your smart thermostat isn’t wired up correctly, then it can cause problems for your HVAC system. However, his explanation is mostly filled with a lot of FUD (Fear, Uncertainty, and Doubt.)

It’s All About the C Wire, Baby

Every thermostat has a handful of wires connected to it (either four or five) that lead back to the electrical control board of your HVAC system. Each wire is usually responsible for something specific, like one wire is for cooling, and another wire is for heating. Many systems have a “C wire” (or “common wire”), which is dedicated to providing electricity to the thermostat to power the screen and other electronic functions.

Older systems usually don’t have a C wire, though, because back then thermostats didn’t require electricity thanks to the fully mechanical operation of mercury-switched thermostats. But today, most modern thermostats have more bells and whistles, which require electricity to run. Thus, the purpose of the C wire.

A C wire isn’t necessarily required for smart thermostats, but it’s highly recommended. And if your thermostat’s wiring includes a C wire, you should connect it to your smart thermostat—most problems that arise due to the smart thermostat happen because there’s no C wire connected to it.

However, it’s not the end of the world if your HVAC system doesn’t provide a C wire for your thermostat, as a smart thermostat could work just fine with your particular system. My system doesn’t provide a C wire, but I’ve used both Nest and Ecobee thermostats without a problem. However, I installed the Power Extender Kit that came with my Ecobee3, which provided a solution for the missing C wire (more on that later).

What Happens When Your System Doesn’t Have a C Wire

If you want to install a smart thermostat, but your system doesn’t supply a C wire, you’re not completely out of luck. Like me, you might have an HVAC system that will still play nice with a smart thermostat without a C wire, thanks to something called “power stealing.”

This sounds bad (and it can be), but it can work fine for some systems. Power stealing works by drawing a small amount of power from the other wires when the heating or air conditioning is running. If you don’t run your system often enough, then your smart thermostat itself will briefly power on the HVAC to suck up some power for a short while.

However, this same method may not work properly on your particular system and could result in a short circuit or possibly damage components over the long term. If that’s the case (or you’re unsure if a smart thermostat would work with your system), I’d recommend calling an HVAC professional to inspect your setup and see if it’s feasible to install a smart thermostat without a C wire.

What If You Don’t Have a C Wire?

If your HVAC system doesn’t have a C Wire for the thermostat, as mentioned above, you may not need to worry about it. However, if you want to play it safe, there are a couple of things you can do.

First off, your best bet is to have an HVAC technician come in and install a C wire to be able to use a smart thermostat without worry. This usually involves completely removing the existing wiring and running all new wiring that includes a C wire. It’s a pretty easy job for an electrician or an HVAC technician.

Some smart thermostats also offer adapter kits (like the Power Extender Kit for Ecobee thermostats. You can also buy universal kits) that can add a semi-faux C wire to your HVAC system via the control board. It’s not quite as nice as just having a real C wire, but it’s certainly better than nothing and will get the job done.

---

In the end, play it safe and make sure that your thermostat’s wiring comes with a C wire. If not, you may still be okay, but it’s probably a good idea to install a C wire or an adapter kit anyway.

Read More

How to Sell Your Laptop, Phone, or Tablet for Top Dollar by ANDREW HEINZMAN

So, you’ve decided to turn those old electronics into cash. But if you’re trying to turn a retired phone or laptop into big bucks, you’re going to have to put in some elbow grease.

If You Want Money, Sell it Yourself

If you want to get top dollar for an old phone or laptop, then you have to sell it yourself. That means you’re going to put in some extra effort. Yes, there are sites like Gazelle that can do the work for you, but they take a fat chunk of your profits in the process.

There are a lot of places to resell your old device, but they all work the same way. You list your product with a photo, description, and price. Some of these websites allow you to make a nationwide or global listing, but most of them are focused on local listings. Generally, the websites that offer local listings are super easy to use and fulfill, but they aren’t always good for maximizing profits.

• eBay – Nationwide or global. Easy to use.
• Swappa – Like eBay, but easier to use.
• Amazon – Nationwide. Best for like-new products.
• Craigslist – Local
• LetGo – Local
• Facebook Marketplace – Local
• Offerup -Local

But you can’t just throw up a low-effort listing for a product and expect to make a bunch of money. You need to keep your listing as clean, detailed, and professional as possible. That way, potential buyers will spend money on your old phone or laptop without a hint of hesitation or anxiety.

Think of it this way: You’re the seller, so it’s your job to sell your device. The buyer’s job is to buy, and they should fill this role as if it’s second nature. If a buyer has any questions or reservations about your listing, then you haven’t done a good job selling them your product.

You need to make sure that your product’s photos, description, and price can appeal and inform potential buyers. This can be difficult and time-consuming, but we’ll walk you through it step by step.

Format Your Data, and Check if Anything’s Broken

Don’t sell a phone or laptop that’s full of personal photos and Google login information. That’s a dumb idea. Take a minute to format your phone, laptop, or tablet before selling it. This is an easy step, and it gives you the opportunity to see if the device is still working.

You can still sell a broken device for a decent amount of money, but a functioning device will always net you more cash. Check that there isn’t anything wrong with the display, that the battery will still charge, and that all of the buttons work. You can go to a repair shop to get any problems fixed—or not. Some people will buy broken electronics.

Formatting a broken device can be tricky, but it’s still an important step. If your phone’s display is broken, consider having it repaired and then formatting the device. The repair will increase the value of your phone, and you’ll be able to wipe your data. Alternatively, you could use software like LockWiper to format your broken phone from a computer.

Make Your Product Look as New as Possible

Nobody wants to pay top dollar for electronics that look used, so take a minute to clean your old phone or laptop before you sell it. A little isopropyl alcohol can go a long way (don’t use soap and water, you know better than that). Even if that old iPhone still works like new, appearance is everything.

Jonas Sjoblom/Shutterstock

Be sure to take any stickers off of the device, and clean the residue with alcohol. It can be tempting to use a knife to remove stickers, but try to do it with your hands first, so it doesn’t get scratched up.

After that’s done, clean the details, like the buttons and creases. With laptops, you might want to take a minute to clean the keyboard. There’s probably a few years worth of soda, Cheeto dust, and dead skin stuck in there. We aren’t going to pretend that keyboard cleaning is fun, but hey, would you buy a laptop that’s full of petrified food and biological dust? Didn’t think so.

If you’re trying to sell electronics that are damaged, then it can be tempting to skip the cleaning phase. Don’t skip it. People that buy broken electronics aren’t dirty sewer-creatures (well, most of them aren’t), and they’ll pay more for a device that looks clean.

Take Good, Detailed Photos

If you’re listing your old phone or tablet on a website like eBay, Facebook Marketplace, or LetGo, you’ll want to put up some good pictures. This may be the most dreaded step in the selling process, but it’s the most important. Buyers look at pictures before they look at descriptions, and people will pay top dollar for a product that’s listed professionally.

You don’t need a fancy camera to take good pictures; your phone will work fine. Just try to take pictures on a clean surface with a lot of light. Ideally, your product listing will look like it’s done by a business, not by some weirdo in a dirty kitchen.

You don’t need to take a million different pictures; just make sure that all of your bases are covered. Turn the device’s display on (if it works) and get a good mix of wide shots and close-ups. Take pictures of any areas that are scuffed or damaged, and be sure that the product isn’t obscured by anything like a phone case. Remember, potential buyers shouldn’t have to ask you any questions.

If anything extra is included with the phone, tablet, or laptop that you’re listing, then you want to show it in the pictures. These extra items will always add some value to whatever you’re selling, and buyers need to see what they’re buying. If cables are included, show the cables. If the retail packaging is included, show the packaging.

Write a Good, Concise Description

You don’t need to write an essay for your product. If anything, a short, organized description is best. That way, buyers can take the leap without becoming overwhelmed or confused. Remember, buyers shouldn’t spend their time thinking; they should spend their time buying.

For phones and tablets, you’ll generally want to list the model number, storage space, and condition. For laptops, try to include the full model number (it’s usually on the bottom of the laptop), and specs like RAM, internal storage, and processing power.

Gorlov-KV/Shutterstock

Be sure to mention any flaws, even if they’re just cosmetic. And include info about anything extra that comes with the device, like charging cables.

If you’re selling a device that’s broken, then take a second to consider who would buy it from you. Maybe someone will use it for parts, or maybe they’ll try to fix it. You need to include additional info that might be important to these buyers. Detail if anything’s missing, if the device makes any noises, or if it turns on at all.

You can add some enticing, salesman-esque details, but keep them short and sweet. As an example: “This lightly used laptop is very fast, and it’s ready for gaming or office work.”

Now, above all else, you need to follow the golden rule of resellers. Don’t lie, and don’t guess. If you can’t find the technical details for your old electronics, then you need to admit that in the description. If you’ve never run a game on your old laptop, then don’t say it’s “Fortnite-ready.”

Figure Out a Good Price

This is the fun part. There are two ways to figure out a good price for your product. You can set a figure based on the retail price, or you can check how much money other people are making off of the same product.

If you want to go down the easy route, you can base your sale price on the retail price. This method isn’t perfect, and it only works for electronics that are still on the market, like a newer laptop or tablet. Take the current retail price, and chop off $100 or $200. There you go, that’s a decent sale price. Of course, you’ll want to reduce the price even more if there are any problems or blemishes.

The other price-setting method is a little more time intensive, but it helps you set a realistic price will still maximizing profits. You’ll need to figure out how much money people usually pay for the product that you’re selling. eBay’s advance search tool makes this super easy. You type in the name of your product and click the “Sold Listings” box. Boom, now you can set a price based on previous listings.

If the phone or laptop that you’re selling has some blemishes, take a second to look for sold listings that have similar problems. This way, you can get a better idea of how much buyers are willing to pay for your damaged product.

To Bid, Barter, or Stay Strong?

It can be tempting to offer your product for bids on eBay or to negotiate with buyers on LetGo. After all, an item that’s up for bids sells faster, and a buyer that’s trying to barter is probably interested in spending some money.

Syda Productions/Shutterstock

If you’re trying to maximize your profits, it’s best to stand strong and offer a fixed price. But if you want to get it over with, then you might as well open your product to bids or negotiations. Just remember that a professionally listed product will always look more valuable to potential buyers, even if they’re bidding or bartering.

Or, Take the Easy Route for Less Money

If all of this work sounds like hell, then you might as well take the easy route. No, you shouldn’t throw your old phone or laptop away, you should use a reseller website or participate in a buyback program.

Resellers, like Gazelle, are willing to pay a decent amount of money for old devices. These websites are super easy to use; there’s no writing or searching involved. You plug in some information about your device and get a quote on the spot. If you like the quote, then you send the device to the reseller and get paid.

As of right now, Gazelle will pay $125 for a 256 GB iPhone 7 in “fair” condition. That’s the kind of payout that we’re looking at here. (For reference sake, you can sell the same iPhone with a badly cracked screen for $235 on eBay).

Here are some popular reseller websites:

• Gazelle
• Nextworth
• Cellcashier

If you aren’t interested in dealing with a reseller, then you can participate in a buyback or trade-in program. These programs will usually give you store credit or a discount for new purchases, like a phone upgrade. Sometimes, they’ll even pay you for broken devices.

Here are some popular buyback and trade-in programs:

• Amazon
• Best Buy
• Apple
• The EPA has a robust list of buyback and trade-in programs.

Read More

The Best Wireless Keyboards by ANDREW HEINZMAN

Alright, it’s time to clean up the mess of wires that plague your desk. Where to start? By swapping out that dirty old wired keyboard for a brand new wireless keyboard.

Wireless keyboards have been around for a while, but if your last experience was a bad one (ten years ago) we’d urge you to take a modern wireless keyboard for a spin. They’re more reliable and affordable than they used to be, and they come in a variety of styles, just like old fashioned wired keyboards. Some wireless keyboards are made specifically for tablets and phones, but we’re focusing on wireless keyboards for your desktop computer.

Usually, wireless keyboards operate over a radio frequency, and come packaged with a USB dongle. But some are Bluetooth enabled, which is nice if your computer is Bluetooth-ready. If you’ve ever used a wireless mouse, the experience is pretty similar. Like wireless mouses, wireless keyboards are battery-operated and require a charge (or a new AA battery) every few months.

You’d think that it’d be easy to find a good wireless keyboard, but that’s not exactly the case. There are a ton of wireless keyboards on the market, and they’re all targeted toward different computer users. If you’re trying to find a reliable budget wireless keyboard, it can be hard to shop through the mess of gaming keyboards and premium mesh keyboards. If you’re a gamer, it can be difficult to find a balance between affordability and usability.

Lucky for you, we’ve taken the time to find and describe the best wireless keyboards, for everybody’s needs.

CORSAIR K63 Mechanical Keyboard ($90)

CORSAIR

Gamers and writers love the clickity-clack of a good mechanical keyboard, but it isn’t all about sound. A good, modern mechanical keyboard has to hit a lot of benchmarks before it can be universally appreciated. And since we’re looking for wireless keyboards the hunt is even more difficult.

But the CORSAIR K63 wireless mechanical keyboard somehow manages to hit all of those benchmarks with style. It’s a programmable backlit keyboard with authentic Cherry MX Red switches and an RF USB dongle. Unlike many wireless mechanical keyboards, the K63’s keycaps can be swapped out, so you can ditch the black design whenever you see fit. You can also tether a wired mouse or gaming headset through the K63, so you don’t have to replace your other gear with wireless devices.

The K63’s customization features are robust, and you can store multiple keymaps and color schemes for quick switch-outs. The K63’s also offers lighting synchronization with other CORSAIR products, so you can match your keyboard with the lights in your desktop. But don’t go too crazy with those lights, because the K63’s rechargeable battery only lasts for 15 hours.

Naturally, this keyboard isn’t for everybody. Most people are unfamiliar with mechanical keyboards, and the clicking sound that they produce could infuriate your family or roommates. Not to mention, mechanical keyboards like the K63 are pretty big, and their backlighting features aren’t for everybody.

BUY ON AMAZON

Logitech K780 Wireless Keyboard ($60)

Logitech

If you’re looking for a premium wireless keyboard with a slim form factor, then you don’t need to look much further than the Logitech K780. The K780 is a wireless mesh keyboard that can connect and swap to multiple devices with the press of a single button. Pair it with a Logitech Flow mouse, and you’re ready to use multiple tablets or computers in your workspace.

The K780 comes with an RF USB dongle, but it can be used with Bluetooth as well. It’s a full sized keyboard with a number pad, volume control buttons, and a crumb-proof build. It also has a two-year AAA battery life and durable keys, so you don’t have to spend a lot of time running maintenance. The white bit at the end of the K780 is a small kickstand for your phone or tablet, so you can quickly look down from your desktop monitor to send emails or play dorky games on the fly.

This is a great little keyboard for multi-device workspaces, but it isn’t for everybody. Gamers may want a keyboard that offers more robust customization features, and people working with a single-device setup could get a cheaper wireless keyboard without losing usability.

BUY ON AMAZON

UtechSmart Mechanical Keyboard ($50)

UtechSmart

If you want to grab a wireless mechanical keyboard without breaking the bank, you should check out the UtechSmart wireless mechanical keyboard. It’s not as robust as the CORSAIR K63, but it’s a solid keyboard that’s worth your time. It’s outfitted with MX Blue switches, which offer a classic (and pretty loud) mechanical keyboard click. It has a built-in red backlight, which has adjustable brightness but no other customizations available.

The UtechSmart wireless keyboard has a 40-hour battery life, but its batteries can recharge via USB cable. It works over an RF USB dongle, but lacks Bluetooth connectivity.

This is a great wireless mechanical keyboard for someone that wants to save a bit of cash, or for someone that’s just dipping their toes into the world of mechanical keyboards. It may not have the customizable features of a premium wireless mechanical keyboard, but it’s a solid device that you’ll love.

BUY ON AMAZON

Logitech K400 Touchpad Keyboard ($25)

Logitech

Now we’re getting into budget territory. You don’t need to break the bank to get a good wireless keyboard. If you want proof, then take a look at the Logitech K400. It’s a good looking membrane keyboard with volume controls, a straightforward layout, an 18 month AA battery life, and an integrated touchpad (at the expense of a number pad). It works over an RF USB dongle, and it isn’t Bluetooth compatible. This is a great keyboard for a very basic desktop setup, or for a laptop that’s connected across the room to your TV. If you’re intrigued by the idea of pairing a combination keyboard/touchpad/media control system with your TV and want more advanced controls and Bluetooth, you may want to check out the K400’s newer and pricier ($60) cousin the K600.

Naturally, this keyboard is better for laptop users than for desktop users. While the integrated touchpad is a great way to save money on a mouse, most desktop users will prefer to have a mouse in their setup.

BUY ON AMAZON

Arteck 2.4G Slim Keyboard ($23)

Arteck

Sometimes, less is more. A bare-bones keyboard can definitely get you through a workday or a gaming session. The Arteck 2.4G is a neat, slim wireless keyboard with a familiar layout and a 6-month rechargeable battery. The Arteck 2.4G doesn’t have Bluetooth capabilities, and it works over an RF USB dongle. It doesn’t have a number pad or volume controls, but hey, it’s good for typing and it’s wireless.

If you’re looking for more features, then you have to spend more money, but if you’re looking for super cheap and super compact, the Arteck 2.4G is a great, affordable wireless keyboard.

BUY ON AMAZON

Read More

How do crooks break into iCloud-locked iPhones? Let's take a look by Francis Navarro

What would you do if you lost your iPhone? Or worse, if it was stolen? The right thing to do is to first use Find My iPhone to try and locate, and in the worst case scenario, remotely wipe it.

Next, you will probably report the iPhone as lost or stolen to your carrier or Apple to prevent the gadget from being resold. There are serial number blacklist, IMEI locks and more importantly, Apple iCloud account locks that can prevent your phone from being reactivated.

However, despite these activation locks and kill switches that help thwart thieves, there will always be hackers and scammers who will remain one step ahead of the curve. Let's take a look at their latest techniques.

How do hackers resell stolen iPhones and iPads?

A new extensive report from Motherboard details the various ways hackers can unlock iCloud-locked iPhones and iPads so they can reactivate them and sell them.

See, in 2013, Apple introduced the iCloud locking to iPhones and iPads. This means that only one iCloud account can be associated with an iPhone or iPad and in order to sell it (or give it to someone else), that account has to be completely removed and unlinked from the gadget.

This also means that resetting and reactivating the iCloud-locked iPhone or iPad will require the password of the linked iCloud account. Without this, the gadget can't be set up as new.

This is why stolen iPhones that are iCloud-locked are almost completely useless and are often sold just for parts. Note: If you see a Craigslist or eBay listing for a cheap iCloud-locked (also, IMEI blocked) iPhone or iPad, stay away from it! Not only is it useless, it could be stolen or lost merchandise.

But as usual, iPhones and iPads will always be hot items and crooks have found ways around this.

Obtain the iCloud account password via phishing or social engineering

One popular method for reactivating iCloud-locked iPhones and iPads is via old-school phishing scams where resellers will try and locate the original owner then trick them into giving up their Apple ID/ iCloud password.

Black market Apple gadget resellers apparently rely on special iCloud phishing kits that are easy to use and they can be purchased through underground online chats and iPhone hacking message boards.

Based on Motherboard's investigation, these phishing kits come with pre-designed templates that are designed to fool the victims into thinking that their lost iPhone was found.

For example, a hacker could send out a text message that appears to be from Apple containing a link that's designed to steal your Apple ID credentials. These kits can even send out a fake map of where the lost iPhone was located to further reinforce the ruse. Click here to see how these fake Apple login pages can clean you out.

But how do these hackers find out about an iPhone's activation lock status? They reportedly use paid lookup databases that could tell if an iPhone has "Find My iPhone" enabled or if it was already reported lost, stolen, or clean. (Some hackers even claim to have access to Apple's Global Service Exchange - GSX - a repair database used by authorized Apple service centers and Apple itself.)

With these tricks, once the hackers get the iCloud credentials they need, they can simply enter them on the locked iPhone, clear it out then resell them.

Use fake receipts and trick Apple employees into removing the iCloud lock

Although phishing scams are popular among cybercriminals, they can be hard to pull off and there's a good chance that tech-savvy users won't fall for them.

But hackers have another trick up their sleeves - they are going straight to Apple and have the company's employees do the dirty work themselves!

Using photoshopped fake receipts and invoices, scammers are starting to take locked iPhones to Apple Stores, claim that they have forgotten their iCloud password and have Apple employees unlock the devices for them.

See, according to documents obtained by Motherboard, Apple Stores have an "iCloud Support App" that lets employees check the iCloud status of an iPhone or iPad, and it also allows managers to request the unlocking of the device.

With an authentic-looking receipt and detailed information about the gadget (IMEI number, date of purchase, name on the iCloud account, etc.) obtained from online databases, it's not hard to see why this method is becoming more popular.

Note: Keep in mind that an iCloud lock is different from your iPhone's passcode. Your passcode will lock your screen and encrypt your iPhone's data, while an iCloud lock will prevent it from being reactivated under a different account.

Steal the iPhone with physical threats and force the owner to disable iCloud

While phishing and social engineering scams are devious, at least they don't cause physical harm. But, it looks like street-level crooks are stepping up their game, and they are now using violent threats to force victims into deleting their iCloud accounts from their iPhones.

Last month, Motherboard notes that there have been reports of iPhone muggings in Philadelphia where the suspects are holding their victims up at gunpoint, demanding that they pull up their iPhones, disable "Find My iPhone" then log out of their iCloud account.

Another case filed in Washington detailed how a teenager placed a woman in a chokehold and asked her to delete her iCloud from her iPhone 6S, then ran away with it.

It's scary enough that a thief would steal your smartphone right out of your hand while you're using it, but using violent threats to force you into removing your iCloud account? That's an entirely new level of hi-tech crime.

Want to learn more about this disturbing trend? Listen to this free Komando podcast and hear Kim talk about in just a minute.

How to protect your iCloud account

Secure your iCloud Account Password immediately

First order of business, if your iPhone was stolen or lost, change the password of your iCloud account immediately. Even if attackers get a hold of your credentials and try to lock your device, the password will be invalid, foiling the attempt.

Beware of phishing scams

And as usual, beware of phishing scams. Elaborate phishing scams that use fake login pages that look like the real deal are becoming more common.

This is why it's important to carefully check the addresses or URLs of the websites you visit, especially login pages.

Keep Passwords Separate for Each Account

This is recommended not only for your iCloud account but also for every other online account. Every password is best kept unique, rather than using the same password everywhere. When you use the same password for every account, hackers find it easy to attack you.

If one of your accounts is attacked, chances are the other accounts will not be safe for too long. On the other hand, having unique passwords for each account will keep the other accounts safe even if one of them is compromised.

Here are 5 password mistakes that will likely get you hacked.

Activate Two-Step Authentication

While this can't stop your lost iPhone from being reset, it does help protect all your data stored in your iCloud account. This includes pictures, emails and contacts.

When you have two-step authentication enabled, Apple will send you a passcode on your device to ensure it was you who requested access and not someone else. Even in the event of someone gaining access to your account, since they do not have passcode access to the data stored they will not be able to access said data.

Note: Although iCloud's two-step can protect your account, it has one glaring weakness. Click here to read more about it.

Read More

Take this Google quiz to see if you can spot phishing emails I got five correct out of eight. by Marrian Zhou

You're worried that you might get scammed online? If you aren't, you should be.

Jigsaw, a subsidiary of Google parent company Alphabet, on Tuesday introduced a quiz that tests whether you can spot a phishing email. The results point out how to identify possible scams.

Phishing emails are one of most common forms of online scams, according to Jigsaw's blog post.

They're fake emails that hackers and scammers use as bait to steal your passwords, information, money or items you've listed on e-commerce sites like eBay. In June, the FBI busted a major email fraud criminal ring that stole millions of dollars from businesses by targeting employees who had access to company finances. Phishing emails pretending that they're from Apple Support are also on the rise.

"We created this quiz based on the security trainings we've held with nearly 10,000 journalists, activists, and political leaders around the world from Ukraine to Syria to Ecuador," Jigsaw said in the blog post. "We've studied the latest techniques attackers use, and designed the quiz to teach people how to spot them."

The quiz will show you how to check email addresses and URLs to identify scams. In addition, you can check out CNET's tips for avoiding scams and find out what to do when you're scammed on e-commerce platforms.

Read More